In short: INOA is L'Oreal Professionnel's ammonia-free permanent colour, powered by the Oil Delivery System. Mix it 1:1 with its dedicated INOA Oil Developer (10, 20 or 30 vol), apply to dry hair and process for 35 minutes without heat — up to 100% white coverage and up to 3 levels of lift, with no ammonia odour and gentler scalp comfort.
Written for salon professionals. Reviewed against current L'Oreal Professionnel guidance.
INOA is one of the most popular professional colour systems in UK salons — particularly valued for clients with sensitive scalps or ammonia sensitivity, for grey coverage, and for rich, lasting, true-to-tone results where client comfort matters.
What is INOA?
INOA (Innovative No Ammonia) is L'Oreal Professionnel's permanent, oil-based hair colour. Instead of ammonia, it uses an Oil Delivery System (ODS) — oil is the colour driver, injecting the dyes deep into the cortex for dimensional, long-lasting colour, with only a low dose of alkaline agent to gently open the cuticle. The result is permanent colour with up to 100% white coverage, no ammonia odour and noticeably less scalp irritation than traditional tints. It's also a vegan formula.
How does INOA's ammonia-free technology work?
Traditional permanent colour uses ammonia to swell the hair and drive pigment into the cortex. INOA replaces that with its Oil Delivery System: the oil base carries the colourant in without the same chemical aggression. In practice that means no ammonia smell during application, lower scalp sensitivity, comfortable on-scalp application, softer-feeling hair after colour, and reliable, long-lasting results with good shine.
The complete INOA service
Current L'Oreal Professionnel guidance pairs INOA with Metal Detox and Dia Light as a three-step service — metals in the hair can cause uneven colour and breakage, so the service starts by neutralising them:
- Pre-treat: mist Metal Detox Pre-Treatment through the hair to neutralise metals — for up to 87% less breakage and more reliable colour.
- Colour the regrowth with INOA, mixed 1:1 with INOA Oil Developer (10, 20 or 30 vol).
- Refresh the lengths and ends with Dia Light, the acidic gel-crème demi-permanent colour, with a flexible 2–20 minute take-through (see below).
Rinse, then shampoo with Metal Detox Shampoo or INOA Post-Color Shampoo and follow with the Metal Detox Mask. The full service delivers 100% grey coverage and visibly healthier hair (+48% shine vs unwashed, uncoloured hair).
How do INOA shade numbers work?
INOA uses a dual coding system: every shade has a number and a matching letter code. The number before the point is the depth (1 black to 10 lightest blonde); the numbers after the point are the tones (reflects), with the first the primary tone and the second the secondary.
| Number | Letter | Tone |
|---|---|---|
| .0 | N / NN | Natural |
| .1 | B | Blue (cool / ash) |
| .2 | V | Violet |
| .3 | G | Gold |
| .4 | C | Copper |
| .5 | Rv | Red Violet |
| .6 | R | Red |
| .7 | Gr | Green |
| .8 | M | Mocha |
So 5.32 is also written 5GV — a level 5 with a gold primary and violet secondary tone. Remember the law of colour: opposite tones on the colour wheel neutralise one another (for example, blue or violet counters orange and yellow), which is the basis of all neutralising and toning work.
INOA intense reds: Carmilane, Rubilane and DM5
INOA's intense red shades — Carmilane™, Rubilane™ and DM5 — are designed to cover up to 100% white on their own, thanks to their intensity. They must only be used alone — never mixed with another shade. For the best result on the first application, follow the virgin-hair method regardless of the client's regrowth.
What developer does INOA use?
INOA uses only its own dedicated INOA Oil Developer and must never be mixed with standard developers. It comes in three volumes:
| Developer | Levels of lift | Usage |
|---|---|---|
| 10 vol (3%) | Up to 1 level | Toning, refreshing |
| 20 vol (6%) | Up to 2 levels | Coverage of white, colouring on the same level |
| 30 vol (9%) | Up to 3 levels | More visible colour change |
Mixing ratio: 1:1 — one 60g tube of colour to 60g of INOA Oil Developer, mixed to a smooth, creamy texture (proper mixing is integral to the result). Processing time: 35 minutes at room temperature — do not use heat. For a refresher on strengths, see our developer volumes guide.
How do you apply INOA?
Apply to dry, unwashed hair — don't pre-shampoo, as the oil system works best with the hair's natural oils present. Mist Metal Detox Pre-Treatment on each section first, then apply the INOA formula with a brush. INOA can usually be applied directly to the scalp comfortably, though a light scalp protector is still wise for very sensitive clients. At the end of processing, add a little water and emulsify to lift the oil, then rinse thoroughly and shampoo with Metal Detox Shampoo or INOA Post-Color Shampoo, finishing with the Metal Detox Mask.
Always carry out an allergy alert test 48 hours before each colour service.
How good is INOA for grey coverage?
INOA is especially well-suited to grey coverage — the Oil Delivery System penetrates resistant white fully without ammonia's harshness.
- Up to 70% white: mix your target shade with 10, 20 or 30 vol INOA Oil Developer, apply and process for 35 minutes.
- 70–100% white: if the target shade is warm, mix ½ tube target + ½ tube Gold Natural at the same level; if it's cool, mix ½ tube target + ½ tube Natural at the same level. For deeper, more opaque coverage, mix ½ tube target + ½ tube Extra Coverage Natural at the same level. For the mid-lengths and ends, use the target shade only.
For the full method across the brands, see our grey coverage guide.
Refreshing the lengths and ends: take-through
At the end of the root development, refresh the mid-lengths and ends. The take-through time depends on how much change you want:
Take through with Dia Light (ideal if your client colours regularly, to benefit from Dia Light's acidic demi-permanent pH):
- Subtle or moderate change — take through for the final 10 minutes of INOA development, using 9-vol Diactivateur.
- Pronounced change — take through for the final 20 minutes, using 9-vol Diactivateur.
Take through with INOA (virgin hair):
- Subtle change — final 5 minutes.
- Moderate change — final 20 minutes.
- Pronounced change — take through immediately.
Formulating the take-through shade: when the roots are covered with a 70–100% white formula, prepare a fresh mixture for the lengths and ends using only the target shade — without the Natural, Gold Natural or Extra Coverage Natural used in the coverage formula.
INOA Cool Boosters
INOA Cool Boosters — Blue, Green and Violet — are concentrated additives to create, neutralise or intensify tone, controlling brassiness for up to 8 weeks and unlocking 260+ shades. Add them to your INOA formula by the job:
| Goal | Tube amount | In grams |
|---|---|---|
| Create | 1/8 – ½ | 7.5 g – 30 g |
| Neutralise | 1/60 – ¼ | 1 g – 15 g |
| Intensify | ¼ – ½ | 15 g – 30 g |
For example: INOA 6N (40g) + 8.1 (30g) + Green Booster (11g). Remember to keep the developer at 1:1 with the total colour weight.
INOA vs Majirel vs Dia Light: what's the difference?
| INOA | Majirel | Dia Light | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ammonia | No | Yes | No |
| Permanence | Permanent | Permanent | Demi-permanent |
| Grey coverage | Up to 100% | Up to 100% | Up to 70% |
| Lift capability | Up to 3 levels | Up to 3 levels | None |
| Best for | Sensitive scalps, grey coverage | Fashion colour, vivid results | Toning, refreshing, blending |
Quick reference
- Type: ammonia-free permanent colour, Oil Delivery System (L'Oreal Professionnel)
- Grey coverage: up to 100% white
- Mixing ratio: 1:1 (60g colour : 60g INOA Oil Developer)
- Developers: INOA Oil Developer 10 / 20 / 30 vol only
- Lift: up to 1 (10 vol), 2 (20 vol), 3 (30 vol)
- Development: 35 minutes, no heat
- Vegan: yes
- Service: Metal Detox Pre-Treatment → INOA roots → Dia Light lengths/ends → Metal Detox Shampoo & Mask
Frequently asked questions
Is INOA permanent?
Yes — INOA is a permanent oxidation colour, giving long-lasting results and up to 100% white coverage.
Is INOA ammonia-free?
Yes. INOA uses an oil-based Oil Delivery System instead of ammonia, so it's odourless and gentler on the scalp. It's also a vegan formula.
What developer do you use with INOA?
Only INOA's own Oil Developer, in 10, 20 or 30 vol. Never substitute a standard developer.
What is the INOA mixing ratio?
1:1 — one 60g tube of colour to 60g of INOA Oil Developer, mixed to a smooth, creamy texture.
How long does INOA take to process?
35 minutes at room temperature, with no added heat.
How do you cover 70–100% white with INOA?
Mix ½ tube target + ½ tube of a same-level Natural (cool target), Gold Natural (warm target) or Extra Coverage Natural (for opaque coverage). Use the target shade alone on the mid-lengths and ends.
Can you mix INOA reds like Carmilane or Rubilane?
No. The Carmilane, Rubilane and DM5 intense reds must only be used alone — never mixed with another shade — and cover up to 100% white by themselves.
How many levels can INOA lift?
Up to 3 levels, using 30 vol developer.
Can you apply INOA directly to the scalp?
Yes — its low-irritation, ammonia-free formula is designed for comfortable on-scalp application.
What is L'Oreal INOA?
INOA is L'Oreal Professionnel's ammonia-free permanent hair colour. It uses an Oil Delivery System instead of ammonia to give up to 100% white coverage and up to 3 levels of lift, with comfortable, low-odour on-scalp application.
What does INOA stand for?
INOA stands for Innovative No Ammonia.
Is INOA vegan?
Yes — INOA is a vegan formula, with no animal-derived ingredients or by-products.
What is the difference between INOA and Majirel?
Both are permanent L'Oreal Professionnel colours with up to 100% white coverage and up to 3 levels of lift. INOA is ammonia-free and oil-based, mixing 1:1 and ideal for sensitive scalps; Majirel is an ammonia-based crème mixing 1:1.5. See our Majirel vs INOA comparison.
Why stock INOA?
INOA is a consistent top-seller because it solves a real client problem — permanent, high-coverage colour without the scalp experience that puts many clients off traditional tints. It's particularly valuable for salons with an older client base, premium and boutique salons where the no-ammonia experience justifies a higher service price, and open-plan salons where no odour improves the environment for everyone. Browse the full INOA range — shades and Oil Developers — in our colour section, with trade pricing and fast UK delivery as standard.
Professional use only. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions and complete the recommended allergy alert test before every application.
Written by Charlotte Read, Content Writer at Hairco & Beauty. Charlotte has over six years' experience in professional hair and beauty, and our guides are informed by colleagues with 100+ years of combined salon experience and by insight from the trade customers we supply. More about our content.
