In short: INOA is L'Oréal Professionnel's ammonia-free permanent colour. It's mixed 1:1 with its own INOA Oil Developer (10, 20 or 30 vol), applied to dry hair and processed for 35 minutes without heat, giving up to 100% grey coverage and up to 3 levels of lift — with no ammonia odour and gentler scalp comfort.
Written for salon professionals. Reviewed against current L'Oréal Professionnel guidance.
What is INOA?
INOA (Innovative No Ammonia) is L'Oréal Professionnel's permanent, oil-based hair colour system. Instead of ammonia, it uses an Oil Delivery System (ODS) — a roughly 60% oil base — to carry colour into the cortex, with only a low dose of alkaline agent to gently open the cuticle. The result is permanent colour with up to 100% grey coverage, no ammonia odour, and noticeably less scalp irritation than traditional tints. It's also a certified vegan formula.
INOA has become one of the most popular professional colour systems in UK salons — particularly valued for:
- Clients with sensitive scalps or ammonia sensitivity
- Grey blending and grey coverage services
- Rich, lasting, true-to-tone results
- Colour services where client comfort is a priority
How does INOA's ammonia-free technology work?
Traditional permanent colour uses ammonia to swell the hair and drive pigment into the cortex. INOA replaces that with its Oil Delivery System: the oil base carries the colourant in without the same chemical aggression. In practice that means:
- No ammonia smell during application — a real benefit in open-plan salons
- Lower scalp sensitivity and irritation
- Colour can be applied directly to the scalp comfortably
- Hair feels softer and more conditioned after colour
- Reliable, long-lasting results with good shine
What shades does INOA come in?
INOA offers a comprehensive shade range — over 80 intermixable shades across natural, fashion and coverage tones, organised by depth (1–10) and reflect using standard L'Oréal colour notation.
| Series | Description | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Natural (N / .0) | Pure, clean naturals | Foundation colours, grey coverage |
| Ash (A / .1) | Cool, grey-neutralising | Silver toning, cool brunettes |
| Iridescent (I / .2) | Soft violet-based | Neutralising warmth, natural dimension |
| Gold (G / .3) | Warm golden | Warm brunettes, golden blondes |
| Copper (C / .4) | Vibrant warm copper | Copper and auburn tones |
| Mahogany (M / .5) | Red-violet base | Deep reds, brunette warmth |
| Red (R / .6) | Pure vivid red | Fashion reds |
| Mocha (Moka / .8) | Brown-green base | Mocha, chestnut tones |
What developer does INOA use?
INOA uses its own dedicated INOA Oil Developer (INOA Rich Developer) and must never be mixed with standard developers. It comes in three volumes:
| Developer | Volume | Use case |
|---|---|---|
| INOA Oil Developer | 10 vol (3%) | Tone-on-tone, darkening, refreshing; up to 1 level |
| INOA Oil Developer | 20 vol (6%) | Grey coverage and colouring on the same level; up to 2 levels |
| INOA Oil Developer | 30 vol (9%) | Darkening a light base, pre-colouring, and up to 3 levels of lift |
Mixing ratio: 1:1 — one 60g tube of colour to 60g of INOA developer, measured by weight for accuracy. Processing time: 35 minutes at room temperature — do not use heat.
How do you apply INOA?
Dry hair: apply to dry, unwashed hair — don't pre-shampoo. The oil system works best with the hair's natural oils present.
Scalp: INOA can usually be applied directly to the scalp without a barrier cream, though a light scalp protector is still wise for very sensitive clients.
Emulsify: at the end of processing, add a little water and emulsify before rinsing to lift the oil and ensure a clean rinse.
Resistant grey: use 20 vol and consider mixing a natural with a slightly warmer tone (e.g. 50% 7.0 + 50% 7.3) to improve grip.
How good is INOA for grey coverage?
INOA is especially well-suited to grey coverage — the oil delivery system penetrates resistant grey fully without ammonia's harshness.
Up to 70% grey: use your target shade with 10, 20 or 30 vol developer, matching the natural base and desired reflect, and process for the full time.
70–100% grey: if the target shade is warm, mix ½ tube target + ½ tube Gold Natural at the same level; if it's cool, mix ½ tube target + ½ tube Natural at the same level. For deeper, more opaque coverage, use an extra-coverage natural.
Grey blending: use 10 vol for a softer blend, applied selectively to the root and blended through the lengths — it pairs well with highlights or balayage for a seamless grow-out.
INOA vs Majirel vs Dia Light: what's the difference?
| INOA | Majirel | Dia Light | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ammonia | No | Yes | No |
| Permanence | Permanent | Permanent | Demi-permanent |
| Grey coverage | Up to 100% | Up to 100% | Up to 70% |
| Lift capability | Up to 3 levels | Up to 3 levels | None |
| Best for | Sensitive scalps, grey coverage | Fashion colour, vivid results | Toning, refreshing, blending |
Frequently asked questions
Is INOA permanent?
Yes — INOA is a permanent oxidation colour, giving long-lasting results and up to 100% grey coverage.
Is INOA ammonia-free?
Yes. INOA uses an oil-based Oil Delivery System (ODS) instead of ammonia, so it's odourless and gentler on the scalp. It's also a certified vegan formula.
What developer do you use with INOA?
Only INOA's own Oil Developer, available in 10, 20 and 30 vol. Never substitute a standard developer.
What is the INOA mixing ratio?
1:1 — one 60g tube of colour to 60g of INOA developer, measured by weight.
How long does INOA take to process?
35 minutes at room temperature, with no added heat.
Can INOA cover 100% grey?
Yes. Up to 70% grey, use the target shade alone; for 70–100% grey, mix half the target shade with a Gold Natural or Natural at the same level for full coverage.
How many levels can INOA lift?
Up to 3 levels, using 30 vol developer.
Can you apply INOA directly to the scalp?
Yes — its low-irritation, ammonia-free formula is designed for comfortable on-scalp application.
Why stock INOA?
INOA is a consistent top-seller for professional salons because it solves a real client problem — permanent, high-coverage colour without the scalp experience that puts many clients off traditional tints. It's particularly valuable for:
- Salons with an older client base — grey coverage is a regular service need
- Boutique and premium salons — the no-ammonia experience justifies a higher service price
- Colourists building a loyal clientele — the comfort factor brings clients back
- Open-plan salons — no ammonia odour improves the environment for everyone
Hairco & Beauty supplies the full L'Oréal Professionnel INOA range — shades and developers — to trade accounts. Contact our trade team for bulk pricing, account opening and next-day delivery.
