In short: Wella Illumina Color is a premium permanent colour built on Microlight Technology for luminous, natural-looking results in any light. Mix it 1:1 with Welloxon Perfect developer, apply to dry hair and process for 30–40 minutes. It lifts up to 3 levels and gives up to 70% grey coverage (up to 100% mixed with a natural).
Written for salon professionals. Reviewed against current Wella Professionals guidance.
What is Wella Illumina Color?
Illumina Color is Wella Professionals' premium permanent colour, known for a luminous, multi-dimensional finish that looks natural in every kind of light — daylight, warm indoor light, anything. It's a full permanent colour (it lifts, deposits and covers grey), but its signature is light reflection: the colour appears to glow from within rather than sitting flat on the surface. Newer Illumina also includes a Metal Purifier to help protect hair from the extra damage metals can cause during colour.
Colourists reach for Illumina when the brief is natural, expensive-looking dimension — luxe brondes, soft blondes, glossy brunettes — and for clients who want shine with a low-damage feel.
How does Microlight Technology work?
Copper and other metals sit on the cuticle and roughen its surface, scattering light and dulling colour. Microlight Technology smooths and protects the cuticle and surrounds those copper particles, so the surface stays clear and light can pass into the hair and reflect back out. The result is that signature inner luminosity — and more even colour development too.
How do Illumina Color shade numbers work?
Illumina Color uses Wella's standard notation — a depth number, then a slash, then the tone (reflect) numbers, with the first reflect dominant and the second secondary. So 10/81 is the lightest blonde with a pearl primary and ash secondary tone. The Illumina range runs from 10/ (lightest blonde) down to 4/ (medium brown).
Depth (before the slash):
| Number | Depth |
|---|---|
| 10/ | Lightest blonde |
| 9/ | Very light blonde |
| 8/ | Light blonde |
| 7/ | Medium blonde |
| 6/ | Dark blonde |
| 5/ | Light brown |
| 4/ | Medium brown |
Tone / reflect (after the slash):
| Number | Tone |
|---|---|
| /0 | Natural |
| /1 | Ash (grey) |
| /2 | Matte (green) |
| /3 | Gold |
| /4 | Red (warm) |
| /5 | Mahogany |
| /6 | Violet (cool) |
| /7 | Brown (warm) |
| /8 | Pearl |
| /9 | Cendré (soft violet) |
Opposite tones on the colour wheel neutralise one another — so a /1 ash or /8 pearl counters yellow and orange in lightened or grey hair, while a /3 gold warms up an over-cool result.
Full Wella Illumina Color shade chart
Every Illumina Color shade we stock, listed by depth from lightest to darkest. Read each code as depth/reflect, then browse the full Illumina shade range.
| Shade | Result |
|---|---|
| 10/ | Lightest Blonde |
| 10/1 | Lightest Ash Blonde |
| 10/05 | Lightest Natural Mahogany Blonde |
| 10/38 | Lightest Gold Pearl Blonde |
| 10/36 | Lightest Gold Violet Blonde |
| 10/69 | Lightest Violet Cendré Blonde |
| 10/81 | Lightest Pearl Ash Blonde |
| 10/93 | Lightest Cendré Gold Blonde |
| 9/ | Very Light Blonde |
| 9/03 | Very Light Natural Gold Blonde |
| 9/7 | Very Light Brown Blonde |
| 9/19 | Very Light Ash Cendré Blonde |
| 9/59 | Very Light Mahogany Cendré Blonde |
| 9/60 | Very Light Violet Natural Blonde |
| 9/43 | Very Light Red Gold Blonde |
| 8/ | Light Blonde |
| 8/1 | Light Ash Blonde |
| 8/05 | Light Natural Mahogany Blonde |
| 8/13 | Light Blonde Ash Gold |
| 8/37 | Light Gold Brunette Blonde |
| 8/38 | Light Gold Pearl Blonde |
| 8/69 | Light Violet Cendré Blonde |
| 8/93 | Light Cendré Gold Blonde |
| 7/ | Medium Blonde |
| 7/3 | Medium Gold Blonde |
| 7/7 | Medium Brunette Blonde |
| 7/31 | Medium Gold Ash Blonde |
| 7/35 | Medium Gold Mahogany Blonde |
| 7/43 | Medium Red Gold Blonde |
| 7/81 | Medium Pearl Ash Blonde |
| 6/ | Dark Blonde |
| 6/16 | Dark Ash Violet Blonde |
| 6/37 | Dark Blonde Gold Brown |
| 6/19 | Dark Blonde Ash Smoked |
| 6/76 | Dark Blonde Brunette Violet |
| 5/ | Light Brown |
| 5/02 | Light Brown Natural Matt |
| 5/7 | Light Brown Brown |
| 5/35 | Light Gold Mahogany Brown |
| 5/43 | Light Red Gold Brown |
| 5/81 | Light Pearl Ash Brown |
| 4/ | Medium Brown |
Shades are fully intermixable, so you can blend within the range for custom tones. Grey-coverage and developer guidance follow below.
What's the Illumina mixing ratio?
For standard full-head colour and grey coverage, Illumina mixes 1:1 with Welloxon Perfect developer — for example, 60g Illumina Color to 60g Welloxon Perfect. For pastel blonde toning, the ratio changes to 1:2 with Welloxon Perfect Pastel (see below). Illumina is not recommended for mixing with Koleston Perfect.
Which Welloxon Perfect developer should you use?
Pair Illumina with Welloxon Perfect, choosing the strength by the result you need:
| Welloxon Perfect | Volume | Result |
|---|---|---|
| 1.9% Pastel | 6 vol | Glossing & blonde toning (mix 1:2) |
| 4% | 13 vol | Deeper results on natural hair |
| 6% | 20 vol | Grey coverage / same depth or darker / 1 level of lift |
| 9% | 30 vol | 2 levels of lift |
| 12% | 40 vol | 3 levels of lift |
How do you apply Illumina Color?
Apply to dry hair. For same-depth or darkening full-head colour, apply from roots to ends and develop for 30–40 minutes (or 15–25 minutes with heat).
When lightening for the first time, apply the colour to the mid-lengths and ends first, leaving around 2cm free from the scalp, and develop for 15–20 minutes. Then mix fresh colour, apply to the roots and develop for the full time (30–40 minutes, or 15–25 with heat).
At the end of development, emulsify the colour with a little warm water and rinse out well, then lightly shampoo with a colour-safe shampoo such as Wella INVIGO Color Brilliance, and use Color Service Post Color Treatment to neutralise oxidation residues and stabilise the colour.
Always carry out an allergy alert/sensitivity test 48 hours before each service — the current formula reduces the risk of developing a new colour allergy, but a reaction remains possible, so the test is still required.
Regrowth application
For regrowth, including grey coverage at the root, mix 1:1 with Welloxon Perfect and apply to the root area only — starting where the percentage of grey is highest. Develop for 30–40 minutes (or 15–25 minutes with heat).
How much does Illumina lift?
Illumina lifts up to 3 levels on virgin hair — using 12% (40 vol) for the full three levels, 9% (30 vol) for two and 6% (20 vol) for one. For more than three levels, pre-lighten first, then tone or colour with Illumina.
Does Illumina cover grey?
Yes — any Illumina shade gives up to 70% grey coverage with a sheer, natural finish.
For 70–100% grey, mix your target shade 1:1 with the corresponding neutral shade at the same level, using 6% (20 vol) Welloxon Perfect for a more opaque, reliable result — for example, 30g 7/ + 30g 7/35 + 60g 6% (20 vol).
Grey blending
To soften and blend grey while enhancing natural highs and lows, Illumina can be used as a sheer blend on shade levels 5/ to 10/. Mix 1:2 — for example, 30g Illumina Color to 60g Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9% — and develop for around 10 minutes.
Glossing with Illumina
A glossing service gently infuses the hair with subtle colour and a luminous shine — ideal for clients trying Illumina for the first time, or to revive colour and shine between appointments. It suits all depths, hair types and colour directions, from blondes to brunettes to coppers. Mix 1:2 (30g Illumina Color to 60g Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9%) and develop for around 5–10 minutes.
Blonde toning with Illumina
Illumina is a favourite for toning after a lightening service. For pastel toning, mix 1:2 (one part Illumina Color to two parts Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9%), apply to the lightened areas needing the most neutralisation first, and develop for 5–15 minutes — combing through every 5 minutes and checking visually until the tone is right. Because the shades are fully intermixable, you can dial in precise, custom tones on pre-lightened hair.
Refreshing colour: Intense & Soft Balance
Intense Balance rejuvenates colour on the ends for even results and healthier-feeling hair, thanks to Metal Purifier Technology working on faded lengths and ends. Mix 1:2 (30g Illumina Color to 60g Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9%) and develop for 10–15 minutes.
Soft Balance adds a hint of colour and shine for a freshly-coloured feel on every visit. After the development time, dampen the hair with water and emulsify the colour through the lengths and ends. Develop for 5–10 minutes.
Refresh with Shinefinity
For an ultra-natural finish, pair Illumina Color on the roots with Shinefinity on the lengths and ends. Apply the Illumina root colour first; then, for the last 20 minutes of development, apply Shinefinity directly to the lengths and ends, develop the two together and rinse. See our Shinefinity guide for the zero-lift glaze system.
Opal-Essence by Illumina Color
Opal-Essence by Illumina Color creates an opalescent, metallic-milky sheen for use after pre-lightening services. It gives an opalescent finish with no grey coverage, and mixes 1:1 with Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9% — used alone, or combined with an Illumina Color shade when more depth is needed. The Opal-Essence palette runs across soft metallic tones — Silver, Platinum, Titanium, Mauve, Lilly, Rose, Copper and Peach.
Developer choice for Opal-Essence:
- 1.9% (6 vol): maximum opalescent shine
- 4% (13 vol): pure use or combined with Illumina Color for supreme opalescent shine
- 6% (20 vol): pure use or combined with Illumina Color for supreme opalescent shine
- 9% (30 vol) and 12% (40 vol): not recommended
Note: Opal-Essence shades gently lighten natural hair as they contain no depth, so factor in the natural underlying tone and combine with an Illumina Color shade when depth is required.
Illumina vs Koleston Perfect vs Color Touch
| Illumina Color | Koleston Perfect | Color Touch | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Type | Permanent | Permanent | Demi-permanent |
| Lift | Up to 3 levels | Up to 5 levels | None |
| Grey coverage | Up to 70% (100% mixed) | Up to 100% | Blends / tones |
| Mixing | 1:1 with Welloxon | 1:1 with Welloxon | 1:2 with Color Touch Emulsion |
| Best for | Luminous, natural dimension | Intense colour, max coverage and lift | Toning, glossing, refreshing |
Quick reference
- Type: permanent, Microlight Technology
- Mixing ratio: 1:1 with Welloxon Perfect (1:2 with Pastel for toning)
- Developers: Welloxon Perfect 1.9% / 4% / 6% / 9% / 12%
- Lift: up to 3 levels
- Grey: up to 70% (up to 100% mixed with a natural)
- Processing: 30–40 min (15–25 with heat); toning 5–15 min
Frequently asked questions
Is Wella Illumina permanent?
Yes — Illumina Color is a permanent colour that lifts, deposits and covers grey.
What is the Illumina mixing ratio?
1:1 with Welloxon Perfect developer for standard colour and grey coverage; 1:2 with Welloxon Perfect Pastel for blonde toning and glossing.
What developer do you use with Illumina?
Welloxon Perfect — 1.9% (glossing/pastel toning), 4% (13 vol) for deeper results on natural hair, 6% for 1 level of lift, 9% for 2, and 12% for 3. It's not recommended to mix Illumina with Koleston Perfect.
How many levels does Illumina lift?
Up to 3 levels on virgin hair.
Does Illumina cover grey?
Any shade gives up to 70% grey coverage; for 70–100% grey, mix 1:1 with the corresponding neutral shade at the same level using 6% developer.
How do you read Illumina shade numbers?
The number before the slash is the depth (10/ lightest blonde down to 4/ medium brown); the numbers after are the tone — /0 natural, /1 ash, /2 matte, /3 gold, /4 red, /5 mahogany, /6 violet, /7 brown, /8 pearl, /9 cendré — with the first reflect dominant.
How long does Illumina take to process?
30–40 minutes without heat, or 15–25 minutes with heat. Pastel toning is shorter, at 5–15 minutes.
Can you use Illumina to tone blondes?
Yes — mix 1:2 with Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9% and develop for 5–15 minutes, combing every 5 minutes, for custom pastel tones.
What makes Illumina different?
Microlight Technology smooths the cuticle and neutralises copper so light reflects from within, giving a luminous, natural-looking finish in any lighting.
Stocking up
Illumina Color is the range to reach for when clients want natural, light-reflective colour with a premium feel — and it pairs with the Welloxon Perfect developers you're already stocking. Browse the full Illumina shade range and Welloxon Perfect developers in our colour section, with trade pricing and fast delivery as standard.
Professional use only. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions and complete the recommended allergy alert test before every application.
Written by Charlotte Read, Content Writer at Hairco & Beauty. Charlotte has over six years' experience in professional hair and beauty, and our guides are informed by colleagues with 100+ years of combined salon experience and by insight from the trade customers we supply. More about our content.
