Perms are back — and not the tight, uniform curls of the 1980s. The modern perm is about soft, lived-in waves, natural body and root lift, riding the same wave of interest as the curly-girl and texture trends. For salons, it is a high-margin service that brings clients back for maintenance, and it uses a kit that is inexpensive to stock. This guide covers the modern perm, the L'Oréal Dulcia system, the tools you need, the process and aftercare.
Why perms are back in fashion
Today's perms are gentler and far more versatile than their reputation suggests. Larger rods and bendy rollers create loose, beachy movement rather than tight ringlets; root and body perms add volume without obvious curl; and modern lotions are kinder to the hair than the formulas stylists remember. Clients want low-effort texture and lasting volume, and a well-placed perm delivers exactly that — which is why it is worth offering again.
How a perm works
A perm is a two-step chemical process. First, a reduction lotion softens and breaks the internal bonds in the hair while it is wrapped around a rod or roller, letting it take on a new shape. Then a neutraliser re-forms those bonds in the new curled position, locking the shape in. Get the wrap, the lotion choice and the timing right and you get clean, even, healthy-looking movement; rush any step and you risk uneven or over-processed results, which is why a test curl matters every time.
The perming system: L'Oréal Dulcia
L'Oréal Dulcia is a professional perming system where you match the lotion to the hair's condition, then fix the result with the neutraliser:
- Dulcia No.1 — for resistant to natural hair that has not been chemically treated.
- Dulcia Advanced Force 0 — the Advanced range option for natural, resistant hair, formulated with added care.
- Dulcia Advanced 2 Tonique — for sensitised or previously coloured hair that needs a gentler approach.
- Dulcia Neutraliser — fixes and sets the curl once processing is complete.
Choosing the right strength for the hair's condition is the single most important decision in a perm. Always assess porosity and elasticity first, and never perm over heavily bleached or compromised hair — see our bleach and lightener guide for where lightened hair sits on condition. When in doubt, test first.
The tools and accessories you need
A perm is only as good as the wrap, so the right accessories matter:
- Perm rods and rod rubbers — rod diameter sets the curl: small rods for tight curl, larger rods for loose waves. Rod rubbers hold each rod securely without denting the hair. Browse the full roller and perm rod range.
- Bendy rollers — ideal for soft, modern waves, body and root-drag where you want movement rather than a defined curl.
- Wet strength end papers — wrap the ends for a neat, even hold and to prevent fishhooks and rough ends.
- Cotton neck wool — a barrier around the hairline and neck to catch drips and protect the client's skin from lotion.
- Disposable processing caps — cover the rods during processing to keep heat in and lotion where it belongs.
The perm process, step by step
This is an overview — always follow the manufacturer's instructions and timing for the specific Dulcia lotion you are using:
- Consult and test. Assess the hair's porosity, elasticity and condition, check for any contraindications, and carry out a test curl to confirm the hair will take and hold.
- Section and wrap. Work in clean, even sections, wrapping each with an end paper onto the chosen rod or bendy roller with smooth, consistent tension.
- Apply the lotion. Position neck wool around the hairline, apply the reduction lotion evenly, cap, and process for the stated time — checking the S-shaped curl test as you go.
- Rinse and blot. Rinse thoroughly with the rods still in, then blot well — excess water dilutes the neutraliser.
- Neutralise. Apply the Dulcia Neutraliser to set the curl for the recommended time, then rinse, remove the rods gently and rinse again.
- Finish. Style softly without heavy tension and book the client's aftercare and maintenance.
Choosing your rod or roller size
The shape comes down to what you wrap on: small rods give tight, defined curls; medium rods give a defined but softer curl; large rods and bendy rollers give the loose, beachy waves and body most clients ask for today. For volume rather than curl, root and body perms on larger tools lift the root without an obvious curl pattern.
Aftercare
Advise clients to leave the hair unwashed for around 48 hours so the bonds fully stabilise, then switch to a sulphate-free, curl-friendly shampoo and conditioner. Avoid heavy tension, tight styles and excessive heat in the early days, and rebook for maintenance as the perm softens and grows out. Good aftercare is what keeps a perm looking salon-fresh for months.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a perm last?
Typically three to six months. A perm is permanent in that it does not wash out — it grows out gradually and softens over time rather than dropping suddenly.
Can you perm coloured or bleached hair?
Coloured hair can often be permed using a lotion formulated for sensitised hair, such as Dulcia Advanced 2 Tonique, but heavily bleached or compromised hair is usually not suitable. Always assess condition and carry out a test curl first.
How long does a perm take?
Most perms take around one and a half to two and a half hours depending on hair length, density and the result, including wrapping, processing and neutralising.
Are modern perms damaging?
A perm is a chemical service, so condition matters — but matching the right lotion strength to the hair, wrapping correctly and following timings carefully keeps the hair in good condition. The biggest risk is perming hair that is already over-processed.
What is the difference between a perm and a body wave?
A body wave uses larger tools and a gentler result to add volume and soft movement rather than defined curl — ideal for clients who want texture without an obvious curl pattern.
Stock everything you need for perming — lotions, rods, rollers, papers and accessories — from the Perming & Waving and Roller & Perm Rods ranges at Hairco & Beauty. Available at trade prices with next day UK delivery.
Written by Charlotte Read, Content Writer at Hairco & Beauty. Charlotte has over six years' experience in professional hair and beauty, and our guides are informed by colleagues with 100+ years of combined salon experience and by insight from the trade customers we supply. More about our content.
