We've done the scrolling so you don't have to. We've rounded up some of the best ash blonde formulas working colourists are sharing right now — all using the professional lines we supply — so you can skip the endless feed-trawling and get straight to a recipe that works. From icy toners to lived-in ash brunette balayage, here they are, credited to the stylists behind them.
Treat every formula as a starting point: read your client's base, lift cleanly, and always carry out a strand test and an allergy alert test before the service. Quantities and developer strengths should be adjusted to the hair in front of you.
How to use these formulas
Most ash blonde results are a two-step process: lift to a clean level, then tone. The cooler and icier the target, the cleaner the pre-lightening needs to be — aim for an even pale yellow before applying an icy ash toner, or unwanted orange and gold will fight the result. Demi-permanents and acidic toners such as Dia Light, Color Touch, Shinefinity and Illumina Color are the workhorses here; permanent lines like Koleston Perfect and Majirel are used where more coverage or lasting depth is needed. New to ash shade codes? Our ash blonde colour guide breaks down what the 7.1, 8.1 and 9.1 numbers mean and how to choose between them.
Mix and process to each manufacturer's instructions, and don't over-develop ash toners — left too long on porous ends they can grab and dull. Where a developer strength or ratio isn't listed below, follow the standard mixing instructions for that line.
The best ash blonde formulas, straight from the colourists
1. Cool Ash Blonde — L'Oréal Dia Light
Dia Light 9.12 + 8.02 + 9.11. A demi-permanent acidic toner blend for a soft, cool blonde with no harsh regrowth line.
Credit: @oliverloveshair_
2. Lived-in Ash Blonde — lighten, shadow and tone
- Lighten: Blondor Plex
- Root shadow: Color Touch 5/0 + 5/1
- Toner: Illumina Color 8/69 + 9/19 + 10/81
A blended root shadow with a cool Illumina toner through the lengths for a low-maintenance grow-out.
Credit: @davidvasquezhair
3. Soft Ash Blonde — L'Oréal Majirel
Root/top: 5. Lengths: Majirel 9.21 + 9.22. Depth at the root melting into a soft, cool blonde down the lengths.
Credit: @loahair_emily
4. Milk Tea Ash — line-by-line options
A set of milk-tea ash recipes across different lines, so you can match the result to whichever you have on the shelf:
- Illumina Color 8/69 + 9/19
- Shinefinity 07/13 + 09/61
- Koleston Perfect 8/97 + 9/16
- Color Touch 9/97 + 8/81 (B11)
Credit: @hairbyelisajohanna
5. Ash Beige Blonde — Wella Illumina Color
Illumina Color 8/13 (10g) + 10/81 (10g) + Silver Mauve (5g), mixed with 50g 1.9% developer. A beige-leaning ash with a mauve twist to keep it out of yellow.
Credit: @chezgaby05
6. Creamy Ash Blonde — L'Oréal Dia Light
Dia Light 10.21 + 10.01. A high-level creamy, cool blonde toner.
Credit: @vellarevamps
7. Ash Brunette Balayage — Wella
Roots: Color Touch 5/97. Lengths: Color Touch 9/97 + 9/16. A smoky, cool brunette-to-blonde balayage melt.
Credit: @dylan.wella
8. Cool Ash — L'Oréal Dia
Dia 9.82 + 9.1. A quick, reliable cool ash toner blend.
Credit: @evolvinghairstudio
9. Winter Cool-Down Toner — Wella Shinefinity
Shinefinity 07/81. A zero-lift glaze to cool down warmth between appointments — ideal for refreshing tone in the colder months.
Credit: @bangs.salon.palma
10. Bright Creamy Ash Balayage (root melt) — L'Oréal Dia Light
Root melt: Dia Light 10.13 + 10.01 with 9 vol. Keeps brightness and dimension through teasy-lights and a bright face-frame while softening the root.
Credit: @vellarevamps
11. Ash Blonde — high-level cool blend
9.1 + 9.11 + 10.01. Shade numbers follow L'Oréal's system — use with your L'Oréal toning line and matching developer.
Credit: @theperfectsalonbydelma
12. Ash Blonde — Wella Illumina + Shinefinity
Illumina Color 9/19 + 6/19 + 8/69 with 12%; or as a glaze, Shinefinity 08/8 + 09/13. A deep, smoky cool ash.
Credit: @christo_hairbeauty
13. Elephant Breath Blonde — Wella
- Lighten: Blondor Plex with 4%
- Root: Color Touch 7/1 + 7/89
- Tip-outs: Color Touch 7/1 + 7/0 with 1.9%
- Toner: Shinefinity 10/6
A soft, greige "elephant breath" blonde — cool with a warm-grey neutrality.
Credit: @calumtierney
How to stop ash blonde turning green or muddy
Green or khaki ash is the most common complaint, and it usually comes down to too much cool pigment on hair that wasn't lifted far enough, or over-processing a matte-based toner. To avoid it: lift to a clean, even pale yellow before toning; don't leave ash toners on longer than needed; go easy on matte or green-based reflects on already-cool or porous hair; and balance heavy ash with a touch of pearl, beige or violet rather than stacking green tones. On porous mid-lengths and ends, dilute or choose a softer formula so the tone doesn't grab.
Aftercare: keeping ash cool between visits
Ash and cool blondes naturally fade warm as toners wash out. Send clients home with cool-care: a silver or purple shampoo used once or twice a week neutralises returning yellow, and a bond or moisture treatment keeps lightened hair in good condition. A refresh glaze every few weeks holds the tone between full services.
FAQs
What is ash blonde?
Ash blonde is a cool-toned blonde with no warmth — the gold, yellow and orange tones are neutralised to leave a smoky, beige or icy finish. It ranges from soft, lived-in ash through to bright, icy platinum. For the cool shade codes behind it, see our ash blonde colour guide.
How do I stop ash blonde going green?
Lift the hair to a clean pale yellow before toning, don't over-process matte or green-based toners, and avoid stacking too much cool pigment on porous or already-cool hair. Balancing with pearl, beige or a hint of violet keeps it out of khaki.
What developer should I use for an ash blonde toner?
Most ash toners use a low-strength developer (around 1.9%–6% / 6–20 vol), depending on the line — Dia Light, Color Touch, Shinefinity and Illumina each have their own mixing instructions. Lower strengths deposit tone without unwanted lift.
Can I get ash blonde without bleaching?
On naturally light bases you can cool the hair with a demi-permanent toner alone, but most ash blondes on darker or previously-coloured hair need pre-lightening first to remove warmth before toning.
What's the best ash toner for yellow hair?
Pearl and violet-based toners counteract yellow most effectively. Choose a high-level cool toner and apply once the hair is evenly lifted.
How long does ash blonde last?
Ash tones are usually the first to fade, often within four to six weeks, as toners wash down. Cool-care shampoos and a refresh glaze extend it considerably.
Every line in these formulas is available at trade prices with next day UK delivery. New to a brand? Browse our professional hair colour range or order a few shades to test before a full service.
All formulas are credited to the colourists who shared them. If one of these is yours and you'd like it amended or removed, just get in touch.
Professional use only. Always carry out an allergy alert test 48 hours before every colour service, and a strand test before applying any new formula.
More colour guides
- Ash blonde hair colour guide: 7.1, 8.1 & 9.1 explained
- Hair colour numbering explained: levels & tones
- Wella toner guide: toning with Color Touch & Shinefinity
- Shinefinity colour chart & shade guide
- Wella Color Touch: the complete product guide
- Wella Illumina Color: the complete colourist's guide
- Bleach powder & lightener guide
Written by Charlotte Read, Content Writer at Hairco & Beauty. Charlotte has over six years' experience in professional hair and beauty, and our guides are informed by colleagues with 100+ years of combined salon experience and by insight from the trade customers we supply. More about our content.
