Permanent colour lifts and deposits for full coverage and lasting results; demi-permanent deposits only with no lift for toning and refresh; toners and glosses add sheer tone and shine; and high-lift colours lighten natural hair up to around 5 levels without bleach. The right choice comes down to how much lift you need and how long it should last.
Hair colour types compared
| Type | Lift | Developer | Longevity | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Permanent | 1–3+ levels | 6–12% | Permanent (grows out) | Grey coverage, going darker or lighter |
| High-lift | Up to ~5 levels | 12% | Permanent | Lightening natural hair without bleach |
| Demi-permanent | None | 1.9–4% | Fades over ~20–28 washes | Toning, refresh, blending, gloss |
| Toner / gloss | None / sheer | Low | Temporary to demi | Finishing tone and shine |
Permanent colour
Permanent colour both lifts natural pigment and deposits new tone, so it can go lighter or darker and gives full, lasting grey coverage. Examples include Majirel, Koleston Perfect ME+ and Igora Royal. For covering white, see grey coverage: which colour and developer to use.
High-lift colour
High-lift shades lighten natural hair up to around five levels in a single step, without a separate bleach — ideal for natural bases going blonde. Examples: Koleston Special Blonde and Igora Royal Highlifts. They are mixed 1:2 with 40 vol — see mixing ratios.
Demi-permanent colour
Demi-permanents deposit tone without lifting and fade gradually, making them perfect for toning, refreshing and blending the first signs of grey. Examples: Wella Color Touch and L'Oreal Dia Light.
Toners and glosses
Toners and glosses are the lightest touch — sheer tone and high shine over pre-lightened or natural hair, with little or no commitment. A demi like Color Touch at 1.9% or a luminous range such as Illumina are popular choices for glossing and toning services.
How to choose
- Need full grey coverage or to change depth? Permanent colour.
- Going lighter on natural hair without bleach? High-lift colour.
- Toning, refreshing or blending with no lift? Demi-permanent.
- Just adding shine and tone? A toner or gloss.
Whatever you choose, match the developer strength to the job — see developer volumes explained.
Frequently asked questions
Which lasts longest?
Permanent and high-lift colour are the most lasting (they grow out rather than wash out). Demi-permanents and toners fade gradually over weeks.
Which is least damaging?
Generally the lower the developer and the less lift involved, the gentler the service — so toners and demi-permanents are kinder than high-lift colour or bleach.
Can demi-permanent lighten hair?
No — demi deposits tone but does not lift. To lighten you need permanent high-lift colour or a lightener; see our bleach and lightener guide.
This is a general guide; always follow the manufacturer's instructions for each product. For professional use.
