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Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ shade guide banner for choosing the right professional hair colour.

Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ Shade Guide: How to Choose the Right Colour for Every Client

Choosing the right Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ shade starts with three core decisions: depth (how light or dark the result should be), tone (warm, cool or neutral), and the service goal (grey coverage, tonal correction or colour refresh).

In professional salon work, matching the natural base level first and then selecting the correct reflect is one of the most reliable ways to achieve consistent colour results and avoid costly corrections.

At Hairco, we work with salons across the UK that rely on Koleston Perfect every day. The most successful colourists follow the numbering system rather than choosing shades based on names alone. This is the shade companion to our complete Koleston Perfect guide, which covers ME+, developers, mixing ratios, grey coverage and the Pure Balancing services in full.

If you are deciding between two shades, always assess:

  • Natural level

  • Underlying pigment

  • Percentage of grey

  • Desired maintenance level

This approach leads to more predictable results and better colour longevity.


What Do Wella Koleston Perfect Shade Numbers Mean?

Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ uses a straightforward numerical system that indicates the depth and tonal direction of each shade.

Example: 7/1

  • 7 = Depth level (Medium Blonde)

  • /1 = Primary tone (Ash)

A more complex shade such as 7/43 includes:

  • 7 = Medium Blonde

  • /4 = Red

  • 3 = Gold

The number before the slash defines the depth. The numbers after the slash define the tone and reflect combination.


Koleston Perfect Depth Levels

Level Description
2 Very Dark Brown
3 Dark Brown
4 Medium Brown
5 Light Brown
6 Dark Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
8 Light Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
10 Lightest Blonde
12 Special Blonde

Wella Tone Numbers Explained

Tone Tone Family
/0 Natural
/1 Ash
/2 Matte/Green
/3 Gold
/4 Red
/5 Mahogany
/6 Violet
/7 Brown
/8 Pearl/Blue
/9 Cendré

Understanding these tone numbers allows you to formulate with greater confidence and consistency.

Full Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ shade chart

Every Koleston Perfect Me+ shade we stock, grouped by type and listed light to dark. Read each code as depth/reflect — for example 8/73 is a light blonde with a brown primary and gold secondary reflect. Browse the ranges: Koleston Perfect Me+, Special Mix and Special Blonde.

Standard shades

Shade Result
10/0 Lightest Blonde
10/03 Lightest Natural Gold Blonde
10/04 Lightest Natural Red Blonde
10/1 Lightest Ash Blonde
10/16 Lightest Ash Violet Blonde
10/3 Lightest Gold Blonde
10/31 Lightest Gold Ash Blonde
10/38 Lightest Pearl Gold Blonde
10/8 Lightest Pearl Blonde
10/86 Lightest Pearl Violet Blonde
10/95 Lightest Cendré Mahogany Blonde
10/96 Lightest Cendré Violet Blonde
10/97 Lightest Cendré Brunette Blonde
9/0 Very Light Blonde
9/03 Very Light Natural Gold Blonde
9/04 Very Light Natural Red Blonde
9/1 Very Light Ash Blonde
9/16 Very Light Ash Violet Blonde
9/17 Very Light Ash Brunette Blonde
9/3 Very Light Gold Blonde
9/31 Very Light Gold Ash Blonde
9/38 Very Light Gold Pearl Blonde
9/7 Very Light Brunette Blonde
9/73 Very Light Brunette Gold Blonde
9/8 Very Light Pearl Blonde
9/81 Very Light Pearl Ash Blonde
8/0 Light Blonde
8/00 Light Natural Blonde
8/01 Light Natural Ash Blonde
8/03 Light Natural Gold Blonde
8/07 Light Natural Brunette Blonde
8/1 Light Ash Blonde
8/2 Light Matte Blonde
8/3 Light Gold Blonde
8/34 Light Gold Red Blonde
8/38 Light Gold Pearl Blonde
8/41 Light Red Ash Blonde
8/43 Light Red Gold Blonde
8/45 Light Red Violet Blonde
8/7 Light Brunette Blonde
8/71 Light Brunette Ash Blonde
8/73 Light Brunette Gold Blonde
8/74 Light Brunette Red Blonde
8/96 Light Cendré Violet Blonde
8/97 Light Cendré Brunette Blonde
7/0 Medium Blonde
7/00 Medium Natural Blonde
7/03 Medium Natural Gold Blonde
7/07 Medium Natural Brunette Blonde
7/1 Medium Ash Blonde
7/17 Medium Ash Brunette Blonde
7/18 Medium Ash Pearl Blonde
7/3 Medium Gold Blonde
7/31 Medium Gold Ash Blonde
7/34 Medium Gold Red Blonde
7/37 Medium Gold Brunette Blonde
7/38 Medium Gold Pearl Blonde
7/43 Medium Red Gold Blonde
7/47 Medium Red Brown Blonde
7/7 Medium Brunette Blonde
7/73 Medium Brunette Gold Blonde
7/75 Medium Brunette Mahogany Blonde
7/77 Medium Intense Brunette Blonde
6/0 Dark Blonde
6/00 Dark Natural Blonde
6/07 Dark Natural Brunette Blonde
6/1 Dark Ash Blonde
6/2 Dark Matte Blonde
6/3 Dark Gold Blonde
6/34 Dark Gold Red Blonde
6/41 Dark Red Ash Blonde
6/43 Dark Red Gold Blonde
6/45 Dark Red Violet Blonde
6/7 Dark Brunette Blonde
6/71 Dark Brunette Ash Blonde
6/73 Dark Brunette Gold Blonde
6/74 Dark Brunette Red Blonde
6/75 Dark Brunette Mahogany Blonde
6/77 Dark Intense Brunette Blonde
6/97 Dark Cendré Brunette Blonde
5/0 Light Brown
5/07 Light Natural Brunette Brown
5/1 Light Ash Brown
5/2 Light Matte Brown
5/3 Light Gold Brown
5/37 Light Gold Brunette Brown
5/5 Light Mahogany Brown
5/71 Light Brunette Ash Brown
5/73 Light Brunette Gold Brown
5/75 Light Brunette Mahogany Brown
5/77 Light Intense Brunette Brown
5/82 Light Pearl Matte Brown
4/0 Medium Brown
4/07 Medium Natural Brunette Brown
4/71 Medium Brunette Ash Brown
4/75 Medium Brunette Mahogany Brown
4/77 Medium Intense Brunette Brown
2/0 Black

Intense shades

The double-number shades give more intensive, longer-lasting reflect — ideal for vibrant reds and deep, rich results.

Shade Result
33/0 Intense Dark Brown
33/66 Intense Dark Brown Violet
44/0 Intense Medium Brown
44/02 Intense Medium Brown Natural
44/44 Intense Medium Brown Red
44/65 Intense Medium Brown Violet Mahogany
55/0 Intense Light Brown
55/02 Intense Light Brown Natural
55/46 Intense Light Brown Red Violet
55/65 Intense Light Brown Violet Mahogany
55/66 Intense Light Brown Violet
66/0 Intense Dark Blonde
66/02 Intense Dark Blonde Natural
66/44 Intense Dark Blonde Red
66/46 Intense Dark Blonde Red Violet
77/0 Intense Medium Blonde
77/02 Intense Medium Blonde Natural
77/46 Intense Medium Blonde Red Violet
88/0 Intense Light Blonde
88/02 Intense Light Blonde Natural
99/0 Intense Very Light Blonde

Special Mix (0/ mixing tones)

Special Mix tones are added to a base shade to intensify or neutralise a reflect, rather than used on their own.

Shade Result
0/00 Clear Mixing Tone
0/11 Ash Intensive
0/28 Matte Blue
0/30 Gold
0/33 Gold Intensive
0/43 Red Gold
0/44 Red Intensive
0/65 Violet Mahogany
0/66 Violet Intensive
0/88 Blue Intensive

Special Blonde (high-lift)

The 12/ Special Blonde shades give extra lift for high, cool blondes.

Shade Result
12/0 Special Natural Blonde
12/03 Special Natural Gold Blonde
12/1 Special Ash Blonde
12/11 Special Intense Ash Blonde
12/16 Special Ash Violet Blonde
12/61 Special Violet Ash Blonde
12/81 Special Pearl Ash Blonde
12/89 Special Pearl Cendré Blonde
12/96 Special Cendré Violet Blonde

How to Choose the Right Wella Koleston Perfect Shade

Step 1: Identify the Natural Base

Assess the regrowth in natural light wherever possible.

Typical examples:

  • Level 5 natural base with 50% grey

  • Level 7 virgin hair wanting a cooler blonde

  • Level 6 pre-coloured hair with unwanted warmth

The starting level determines both lift potential and exposed undertones.


Step 2: Define the Service Goal

Clarify exactly what the appointment is intended to achieve.

Common objectives include:

  • Full grey coverage

  • Root retouch

  • Tonal correction

  • Gloss refresh

  • Fashion colour

  • Blonde refinement

The same client may require different shade choices depending on the service.


Step 3: Select the Tone Direction

Choose a reflect that complements the desired finish and controls unwanted warmth.

Cool Tones

  • /1 Ash

  • /8 Pearl

  • /9 Cendré

Warm Tones

  • /3 Gold

  • /4 Red

  • /5 Mahogany

Balanced Tones

  • /0 Natural

  • /7 Brown


Step 4: Consider Grey Percentage

Grey percentage has a major impact on formula selection.

Grey Percentage Recommendation
0–30% Fashion shades can often be used alone
30–70% Blend with a Natural (/0) shade
70–100% Increase the Natural proportion

This improves opacity, durability and evenness of coverage. See our grey coverage guide for the full method, and the Koleston developer guide for choosing your Welloxon Perfect volume.


Best Wella Koleston Perfect Shades for Common Salon Services

Full Grey Coverage

Reliable salon favourites:

  • 5/0 Light Brown

  • 6/0 Dark Blonde

  • 7/0 Medium Blonde

  • 7/01 Natural Ash

For resistant grey, combining a Natural base with the desired tone generally provides stronger coverage.


Cool Blonde Toners

Popular choices after lightening:

  • 8/1 Light Ash Blonde

  • 9/1 Very Light Ash Blonde

  • 10/8 Lightest Pearl Blonde

These shades help neutralise yellow and brassy undertones.


Rich Brunette Shades

High-performing options:

  • 4/7 Medium Brown Brown

  • 5/75 Light Brown Mahogany Brown

  • 6/73 Dark Blonde Brown Gold

These create glossy, dimensional brunette results.


Warm Coppers and Reds

Popular premium services:

  • 7/43 Medium Blonde Red Gold

  • 6/45 Dark Blonde Red Mahogany

  • 8/43 Light Blonde Red Gold

Vibrant reds and coppers often support higher service pricing due to their visual impact and maintenance requirements. For copper specifically, see our copper hair colour guide.


How We Formulate in the Salon

In everyday salon work, we rarely choose a shade name first. Instead, we assess:

  1. Natural base level

  2. Existing cosmetic colour

  3. Grey percentage

  4. Underlying pigment

  5. Desired end result

For example, a client with 60% grey at level 6 wanting a cool dark blonde might be formulated with a Natural and Ash combination such as 6/0 + 6/1 to improve coverage and tonal control. Our mixing ratios guide covers how to scale these formulas accurately.

This practical approach reflects how professional colourists create consistent results.


Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ vs L’Oréal Majirel

L'Oréal Professionnel Majirel is another established professional permanent colour line. For a full head-to-head on technology, coverage and handling, read Koleston Perfect Me+ vs Majirel.

Feature Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ L’Oréal Majirel
Shade numbering Clear and intuitive Similar but different reflect codes
Technology Me+ dye technology Ionène G and Incell
Grey coverage Excellent with Naturals Excellent
Tone families Broad and easy to mix Extensive, especially cool tones
UK salon usage Widely used Widely used

Both ranges are highly respected. Many colourists prefer Koleston Perfect for its straightforward coding and predictable results.


Common Shade Selection Mistakes

Choosing by Shade Name Alone

Marketing names such as “Pearl Blonde” or “Chocolate Brown” are descriptive, but the numerical code provides the real technical information.

Ignoring Underlying Pigment

Lifting from level 7 to level 9 exposes yellow-orange warmth. If the formula does not account for this, brassiness is likely.

Using Fashion Shades on High Grey Percentages

Without sufficient Natural base, coverage can appear translucent and fade unevenly.

Overstocking Slow-Moving Shades

Holding rarely used tubes ties up cash and increases the risk of expiry.


How Better Formulation Improves Salon Profitability

Correct shade selection affects more than the final result.

Lower Colour Waste

Accurate formulation reduces:

  • Unused mixed colour

  • Repeat applications

  • Corrective appointments

Stronger Client Retention

Consistent colour outcomes build trust and encourage rebooking.

Higher Service Pricing

Premium blondes, reds and corrective work command stronger margins when the outcome is predictable.

Improved Team Efficiency

Junior stylists make fewer mistakes when they understand the numbering system.


Smart Stock Management for Wella Colour

Most salons do not need every shade in the range.

A practical core inventory includes:

  • Naturals from 4/0 to 9/0

  • Best-selling Ash and Gold shades

  • Selected reds and coppers

  • High-volume developers

This covers the majority of everyday formulations while keeping inventory lean.

Many salons reduce costs by consolidating purchases with one dependable trade supplier rather than ordering from multiple sources.

Hairco and Beauty helps salons maintain essential colour stock with competitive trade pricing and reliable availability.


Which Wella Koleston Perfect Shade Should You Choose?

Use this quick formula:

  1. Match the target depth level.

  2. Choose the reflect to add or neutralise warmth.

  3. Blend with Natural shades for grey coverage.

  4. Account for underlying pigment before finalising the formula.

When in doubt, trust the numerical code rather than the shade name.


Frequently Asked Questions

What Does 7/1 Mean in Wella Koleston Perfect?

7 indicates Medium Blonde, and /1 indicates an Ash tone.

What Is Wella Koleston Perfect Me+?

Koleston Perfect Me+ is Wella Professionals' permanent crème hair colour. The Me+ technology introduces a newly created dye molecule designed to reduce the risk of developing a new colour allergy, while delivering pure, intense, long-lasting colour and up to 100% grey coverage.

What Is the Difference Between Koleston Perfect and Koleston Perfect Me+?

Me+ is the updated generation of Koleston Perfect. It adds the Me+ reduced-sensitisation dye technology to the same shade system and colour performance, so your existing shade codes and formulas still apply.

What Is the Koleston Perfect Mixing Ratio?

Koleston Perfect mixes 1:1 with Wella Welloxon Perfect developer (for example 60g of colour to 60ml of developer). The 12/ Special Blonde high-lift shades mix 1:2 for extra lift.

What Developer Do You Use With Koleston Perfect Me+?

Wella Welloxon Perfect, chosen by the job: lower volumes such as 6 vol for tone-on-tone depositing, 20 vol (6%) for grey coverage and on-level colouring, and 30 to 40 vol for lift. See our Koleston developer guide for the full breakdown.

How Long Does Koleston Perfect Take to Develop?

Around 30 to 45 minutes depending on the service. Give resistant grey and maximum-lift formulas the full development time for complete, even results.

Does Koleston Perfect Me+ Cover 100% Grey?

Yes — Koleston Perfect gives up to 100% grey coverage. For higher grey percentages, blend your tonal shade with a Natural (/0) base at the same level to boost opacity and longevity.

Which Wella Koleston Shades Cover Grey Best?

Natural shades such as 5/0, 6/0 and 7/0 provide dependable coverage and can be mixed with tonal shades.

Can Fashion Shades Be Used Alone on Grey Hair?

Yes for lower percentages of grey, but most formulas above 30% grey benefit from the addition of a Natural base.

What Is the Difference Between Koleston Perfect and Majirel?

Both are professional permanent colours, but they use different numbering systems and proprietary technologies.


Browse Professional Hair Colour at Trade Prices

Whether you are replenishing core Wella Koleston Perfect Me+ shades or comparing alternatives such as L'Oréal Professionnel Majirel, buying strategically helps protect salon margins.

For more on the range, see our complete Koleston Perfect guide, is Koleston Perfect Me+ worth it? and the developer guide.

Explore professional hair colour and salon essentials at Hairco and Beauty, a trusted UK trade supplier serving independent salons and professional stylists.

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